Alements & What To Do

Pooping Problem

When a hedgehog undergoes any kind of stress, it can be apparent from the poop - it can be loose, squishy, and not well formed. It can also be tinged greenish-brown, or sometimes you'll see a semi-dark, bright green color. This can be immediate, obvious stress, such as being overwhelmed by being handled by a new person, or it can be more subtle, like the stress of getting used to a new home. The discomfort of quilling can result in inconsistent poops as well. Most baby hedgehogs will have soft or greenish poops on and off when they first go to a new home, which goes away on its own after a few weeks. Anything that upsets the digestive system will result in loose poops as well. This includes food transitions, the use of antibiotics, and unspecific minor stomach upset. Using a probiotic (Benebac or acidopholus) can be very beneficial in these cases. In powder form, a pinch can be sprinkled on top of the food - it has no taste, and is rarely noticed. It can be used daily when needed to help digestive issues, and it's also a good idea to add a little probiotic to the food regularly (once or twice a week), just to help keep the digestive system running smoothly.

 

Benebac is a probiotic specifically designed for animals, which is available in pet stores or from a vet's office. (Benebac comes in a powder and a gel, but the gel often doesn't appeal to hedgehogs - go with the powder.) Acidopholus is available in the dietary/supplement section of any grocery store or pharmacy. It comes in capsules (pills) which can be broken open and have a powder inside. Very runny, water, "diarrhea" poop is a reason to see a vet. Diarrhea can quickly result in dehydration. While you work with your vet to identify the underlying cause, make sure your hedgehog gets plenty of fluids. Pedialyte (the clear/uncolored version) can be fed by syringe. A little mucous in the poop once in a while isn't a cause for concern - sometimes a hedgehog's digestive system will just be a little "off" and it goes away on its own. Recurring, frequent mucous, or any blood or red-tinged mucous in the poop will require a vet visit. This is usually caused by a bacterial infection. Small amounts of canned pumpkin can also help to firm up loose stools.

​

Dry Skin

Dry skin is a common problem for hedgehogs, especially during the winter. It may also go along with scratching, and particularly bad dry skin can result in large, dandruff-like flakes being shed. To reduce dry skin, several drops of flaxseed oil or olive oil can be added to the food every day. A few drops can also be dribbled on the back, or a small amount can be used in rinse water at the end of a bath. Flaxseed oil should be bought in capsule pill form (not liquid) because it lasts much longer that way. One capsule per day, punctured with a needle or the tip of a knife, is enough for both the food and for applying directly onto the hedgehog's back. Other methods to help with dry skin are humidifiers (warm mist only) and oatmeal baths. Even though oatmeal baths can help, water is actually drying to the skin, so bathing a hedgehog too often can exacerbate the dry skin. Topical sprays designed for cats and dogs are another option. Most topical sprays have some kind of scent, which some hedgehogs may be sensitive to.

​

Mites

Mites are a tiny, almost invisible parasite that can infest a hedgehog's quills and skin. The most obvious sign of mites is excessive quill loss and "bald" patches of skin. This usually accompanied by frequent scratching. The quills that fall out may have yellow/orange gunk at the bottom. Mites can be confirmed by a scrape test done by a vet. This is not always accurate because it it is possible for mites to only be present in some places on the skin, and not others. The treatment for mites is inexpensive, and also harmless even if the hedgehog doesn't have mites, so it's a good idea to treat any mite-like symptoms whether or not the vet can confirm it. Mites should be treated with a topical medicine,called Revolution for kittens which must be purchased from your veterinarian. Some Veterinarians will require an initial exam to purchase Revolution, others will just sell it across the counter without seeing the animal, call around in your area. One or two drops (depending on the weight of the hedgehog, 1 for a small 250g hedgehog or 2 for 250+g) between the shoulders is the proper dose, repeat this in 14 days to make sure all mites are dead.

 

DO NOT allow your hedgehog to be given ANYTHING other than Kitten Revolution. 

Mites can come from anything made from wood (including wood shavings or paper-based bedding) or from contact with another animal with mites. Hedgehogs that live on fabric liners, with no wood shavings or wooden houses in their cage, have a very low chance of getting mites. Freeze paper bedding that is not in use to make sure all mites are dead prior to being used.

​

Hibernation Attempts

Hedgehogs in the wild hibernate during the winter, but domestic hedgehogs are unable to do so. Low temperatures, drafts, or inadequate light can trigger a hibernation attempt, which can be deadly for your pet. Their bodies are not able to properly function in the "dormant" state that hibernation causes - instead of sleeping for a while and then waking up, like their wild counterparts, their bodies will simply shut down.

 

Signs of a hibernation attempt are lethargy, wobbly/unsteady movement, and unusually low activity level or appetite. If you notice any of these, check your hedgehog's temperature by feeling the stomach. If the stomach is cold to the touch, your hedgehog needs to be warmed up IMMEDIATELY. Warming a hedgehog up should be done gradually. Put the hedgehog on a heating pad (low setting), in towels that have been warmed in the dryer, or underneath your shirt against your stomach. Do NOT put them in warm/hot water - this can be a shock to their system and they can easily catch a chill when they're wet. Make sure your hedgehog is warm, alert, and active before putting them back in the cage. In the few weeks after a hibernation attempt, hedgehogs may do it again and are also more susceptible to respiratory infections. For this reason, it's a good idea to raise the temperature of the cage by 1-2 degrees after a hibernation attempt.

​

Upper Respiratory Infection

Signs of an upper respiratory infection (URI) include wheezing or difficulty breathing, lethargy, and a runny nose. (A healthy hedgehog's nose will be moist like a dog's - it shouldn't be dripping or bubbling with snot.) A URI is very easy to treat, although it requires an antibiotic from a vet (usually called Baytril). Although the symptoms resemble those of the "common cold" that humans get, a URI will not go away on its own. If left untreated, a URI can very quickly turn into pneumonia, which is usually severe and difficult to treat in hedgehogs.